Mold can be overrated as a source of major heath problems, though that's not to say that it can't aggravate existing health problems. The first thing to consider is to have a professional inspector inspect the home to or have an Energy Star rater rate the home before and after the work has been completed.

Mold requires moisture, warmth and a food source to survive. Remove any one of the three and the mold will go dormant. Tips for Dealing With Mold in the Accessible Areas of The Home 1. Cut out any mold found on drywall or sheetrock. 2. If you can see mold growing on the finished side of the drywall, the back or unfinished side is probably much worse. 3. Although plaster does not support the growth of mold, the paint, wallpaper and sealers used on the plaster will. Scrape and clean the surface of plastered walls. 4. Lead-based paint will not support mold growth, but the oils and dirt that collect on the surface will. Therefore, the paint should be cleaned using warm soapy water wash. Do not use bleach. 5. Do not sand or scrape lead-based paint as the lead will become airborne, which is a more serious health threat than the mold. 6. Mold found on wood in the under-floor areas is common and probably would not affect the occupants of the home. 7. To treat, use warm soapy water solution on mold in under-floor areas, then seal the wood with a "boat coat" or clear varnish sealer once the wood has dried. Same for the attic. Do not use Bleach 8. Molds on wood are natural and are a part of the decay process, so look for and correct the sources of moisture that are contributing to the decay. 9. An air conditioner is a dehumidifier, but if it has been left off while the house was unoccupied, that may be why mold is present inside the home. 10. Have the ductwork cleaned, including the interior cooling coil, coil box and fan. 11. Remove any and all damp insulation in the walls, attic or under-floor areas. 12. Insulate the walls if they are not already insulated. An R-13 or higher rating is preferred. Use expanding foam in the under-floor and in the wall cavities. Use expanding foam or loose fill fiberglass in the attics. Insulate the attic to an R-48 to save on energy costs. 13. Install storm doors and low-E replacement windows. 14. Seal all air leaks to the interior of the home. When the drywall has been removed and wall cavities are exposed, seal all four sides of the cavity where the wood studs meet the exterior sheeting with silicone caulk